Vest DIAY: Do It ALL by Yourself!

This is a pattern for those of you who would like to make this vest in another size - for a baby, a grownup, boy or girl 'cause frankly it's both unisex and uni-age and that's why I wanted to share this DIY (...with a little extra 'on-your-own's).

You're more than welcome to ask if you find it confusing or anything - and I would LOVE for you to share with me your results!

You'll need a prototype shirt or a template, and you'd think that it should be one in the wanted size - BUT that is not the case. It's probably due to fabric differences: ordinary cotton fabric is not quite as stretchy as wool, so when I used a 100 % cotton T-shirt, size 2 y/o (that fits my son perfectly),for measuring it ended up a bit too big...

However it'll probably fit him just perfect when the weather changes and he'll need that extra layer of warm crocheted wool.

...anyway (!) my point is: find a shirt or so to use as a template for measuring - and make sure to choose one in the same fabric as you're working with OR in one size smaller if the fabric is less stretchy!

Aside from the template shirt, you'll need:
Measuring tape
Hook size G
XX oz of yarn that goes with the hook: I used approx. 7 oz/200 g of merino wool for mine
Perhaps a few buttons for decoration

First thing to do is measuring! Using your template shirt measure up the following widths and lengths:

A = from armhole and downB = from the beginning of the armhole till the point where it starts to bend
C = from the beginning of the armhole till the point where it starts going straight again (if B og C seems a bit confusing I've added some pictures below to illustrate)
D1 (strap) = from C and around to the back to where you want back opening to begin
D2 =  width of strap (mine is approx. 1.4 inches/3.5 cm and I think that will do for most sizes - unless you have to make a vest that is a lot bigger/smaller)
D3 = length of the strap from back opening to front/neck opening. Once again you have to pick out (using the template) where you want the opening to begin - just remember that the opening for the vest is sqaure (not round) så you probably want to put it a bit lower than on a regulare T-shirt (see pictures below)
E = from neck opening and down
F = width (from side to side)
G = from strap to strap (measured on the "inside"). G can also be calculated like this:
      F - (2 x C) - (2 x D2)

B & C: The armhole on a regular
shirt bends a lot so it can be
difficult to decide exactly where
it starts to bend, so decide what
you would like the best!

D1: Place the work on the template
and hold the strap tight and closely
to the template as you "turn" the
template--shoulder around - that
way you'll be able to decide how
far down you want the strap to go

Nice to know: No matter how presice you are when measuring make sure to frequently compare your work to the template. That way you'll uncover possible mistakes and errors without having to unravel a whole lot of yarn to correct.

And NOW we're ready to begin...
NB! For rib effect make all sc in BLO (like this)

1) Ch length A (maybe a couple of ch st shorter - it often gets longer when you start on the sc) - turn with 1 ch st (goes for every row from here on)

2) Crochet rows of sc till the work measures B (I did 5 rows)

3) The next 4 rows go like this:

  1. sc all the way, but end with 2 sc in last st
  2. sc all the way
  3. sc all the way, but end with 2 sc in last st
  4. 2 sc in first st, then sc all the way
  5. sc all the way, but end with 2 sc in last st
Now see if the width of the work measures C  - if YES go to 4). If not do another couple of rows where every other row ends with an increase before continuing to 4). REMEMBER to end this piece in the end with the increases (where the work bends upwards). If you do another number of rows than 5 make sure to write down what you do.

4) After you've made the last increase don't turn but instead ch D1 (strap)

5) Do 9 rows of sc to get a strap-width of 1.4 inches - otherwise adjust the number of rows yourself

6) On this row you sc upwards till it measures E - continue to make even rows of sc till the width is G (note how many rows G measures)

/) Ch D3 (REMEMBER that the number of stitches from bottom to back opening has to be the same as the previous strap - that means that the number of stitches in 4) minus the number of stitches in 6) is the amount of ch st you have to make here

8) Repeat 5)

9) On this row do the same amount of sc as you did at the end of 3) before you ch for the strap. From here on you work backwards fra 3): decreases in the beginning of every other row - if you did the same number of rows as I did in 3) just follow these instructions:

  1. 2 sc tog, sc all the way (mirrors row 5)
  2. sc all the way, but sc last 2 tog (mirrors row 4)
  3. 2 sc tog, sc all the way (mirrors row 3)
  4. sc all the way
  5. 2 sc tog, sc all the way (mirrors row 1)

...otherwise see what you wrote down and work it opposite (use the instructions above for help)

10) Repeat 2) (you're now doing the back side of the vest)

11) Ch X - till the chain "meets" the strap where you want the back opening to be (use your template). 

12) Do the number of rows you did to make G in 6) - then add 9 for one strap, 10 for the other (sounds weird but it adds up!). And if you made a different amount of rows for the straps add X rows for the one strap and X+1 for the other.

13) Repeat 9) - last row is crocheted together with the very first row so the vest is put together. Fasten off and weave ends.

14) Attach the straps to the back and the buttons to the front - and the vest is ready!

If you try this pattern please notify me on or upload the result on instagram with hashtag #garnkusserne - I would LOVE to see and (if I may) share with other readers :-)

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