Pattern: Baby mobile with hot air balloons (DIY)

The pattern for this cute (and unisex/neutral!) baby mobile is very, very similar to the pattern for our stroller toy bar, only the balloons for the balloons are bigger, attached to a ring instead of a band - and there's an extra balloon. Therefore you'll have to use the same technique for color change as explained in the pattern.
Tools & ressources:
Hook #12 (2,5 mm)
Thin cotton yarn: approx. 2 oz (50 g) of white and then only a bit of brown for the baskets and four other colors (a great opportunity to get rid of yarn leftovers!)
A large ring (such as these)
Fiberfill for stuffing (stuff the balloons as you go)

Abbreviations:
MR = magic ring (see how to right here)
st = stitch
ch = chain stitch 
sc = single crochet
OC = other color (one OC for each balloon)
tog = together

Balloon (make 4)
1) Do a MR in WHITE with 6 sc
2) 2 sc in each st = 12
3) *1 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* 5 times and yarn over with OC in the last sc = 18
4) *OC: 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, WHITE: 2 sc, 2 sc in same st* Repeat *-* 2 times = 24
5) *OC: 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, WHITE: 3 sc, 2 sc in same st* Repeat *-* 2 times = 30
6-7) Even rounds of 30 sc (*5 sc in OC, 5 sc in WHITE*) 
8) *OC: 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, WHITE: 4 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* 2 times  = 36
9) *OC: 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, WHITE: 5 sc, 2 sc in same st* Repeat *-* 2 times = 42
10) Even round
11) *OC: 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, WHITE: 6 sc, 2 sc in same st* Repeat *-* 2 times = 48
12-13) Even rounds
14) *OC: 4 sc, 2 sc tog, WHITE: 4 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* 2 times = 30
15) Even round
16) *OC: 3 sc, 2 sc tog, WHITE: 3 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* 2 times = 24
17) *OC: 2 sc, 2 sc tog, WHITE: 2 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* 2 times = 18
18) *OC: 1 sc, 2 sc tog, WHITE: 1 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* 2 times = 12
From now on only use WHITE
19-20) Even rounds.
Fastem off, stuff, weave ends

Basket (make 4) - BROWN
Ch 1 at the end of each row to turn
Ch 9
1-9) 9 sc
Mark the last st because from here you'll work in rounds
10) Work around the bottom of the basket and make 8 sc on each side of it = 32
11-15) Even rounds of 32 - make a slip stitch in the last st
Fasten off and leave enough yarn to attach the basket to the balloon. 

*Using a needle sew through the next st in the basket and then attach the yarn to the balloon and weave ends* Using a new piece of brown yarn (in order to get the basket hanging evenly from the balloon) repeat *-* 3 times, so that 4 strings of yarn hold the balloon and basket together. Make the attachements in every 8th st so that it looks nice and even.

The ring
Using WHITE yarn ch a suiting amount of ch - it should be a little longer than your ring. Join the ends together with a slip stitch. Sc around until your work covers the ring, then do a round of slip stitches that closes the work around the ring.

"Handle"
Using a needle attach a long string of white yarn to the ring - attach the other end of the string on the opposite side of the circle. Repeat this procedure so that the two strings of yarn cross over. The yarn strings should not be straightened out, but remain long and loose so that you can lift them up, and the ring will hang below them. 
Hold the ring up ind the handle and carefully adjust it so that it won't be uneven and then tie knot at the top of the handle in order to make a tiny loop as "handle".

Attach the hot air balloons to the ring using white yarn. It looks the best (I think) when strings are alined with the string forming the handle. Remember to make sure that all four strings have the same length.

Crochet away!

NB! Note that the pattern is for private use only! You may not sell the pattern nor anything you made using it.

Pattern: Grannysquare oven mitts (DIY)


Granny squares can be used for so many purposes, one of the more popular ones being the grannysquare blanket. However, I my patience wasn't up for that challenge so instead I made a pair of oven mitts for my step mom. If you want a pair for yourself - or maybe just inspiration for a grannysquare pattern - I hereby present to you this free and quite thorough grannysquare-oven-mitt-pattern with pictures.



If you try the pattern please share and/or leave a comment :-)



For one pair of mitts you'll need:
Hook size E
Approx. 5 oz of cotton yarn that goes with a hook size E or maybe G - like this (I made both layers of the mitts in this yarn, but frankly I think it would both look and feel better if you use a smaller hook and thinner yarn for the back piece)
Stitch marker

Abbreviations:
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
ch st = chain stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
loop = there will be a lot of stitches in the loops made by chain stitches - I'll just refer to these as "loops"

Front piece
Ch 5 and join ends with 1 sl st
1) Ch 1, do 12 sc in the ring, end the round with 1 sl st in the first sc
2) Ch 4, *1 dc in next st, ch 2* Repeat *-* throughout the round, end with 1 sl st in the 2nd ch st
By now you're "square" should look
like this...














First corner
A square is born...
3) 1 sl st in the first loop of ch st, ch 1, 1 sc in the same loop (mark this sc), *Ch 2, 1 sc in next loop, [ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in next loop (this creates the corner of the square), ch 2, 1 sc in next loop* Repeat *-* 3 times - however, the very last sc on the round is replaced with a sl st that goes in the first sc of the round (the one you marked in the beginning)

Basically this is all you have to know to do the following rounds. Working round 4 you'll probably notice how the technique and procedure is very similar to round 3.


This is what the square looks like
after round 4
4) 1 sl st in the first loop of ch st, ch 1, 1 sc in the same loop (mark this sc), *Ch 2, 1 sc in next loop, [ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in next loop (the loop between the two groups of dc, the corner), ch 2, 1 sc in next loop, ch 2, 1 sc in next loop* Repeat *-* 3 times - however, the very last sc on the round is replaced with a sl st that goes in the first sc of the round (the one you marked in the beginning)

Do you see now how round 3 and 4 is almost exactly the same? Only round 4 has an extra *ch 2, 1 sc in next loop* - that's because there's an extra loop (each round an extra loop is added). In the next 2 rounds (round 5 and 6) begin with *1 sl st, 1 sc in next loop* (this part is different from 3 and 4), mark your first sc in which you'll do a sl st at the end of the round. From here on do as in round 3 and 4: in the "regular" loops of ch st do *ch 2, 1 sc* and in the corners you *ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*

When you've made round 5 and 6 as described above, your square should look like this:














7) Now you have to do the edging of the square (this is where I made a change of colors). 
Ch 3 and then make 1 dc in every sc, 2 dc in every regular loop and do the corners as previously (*ch 2,3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*). End with 1 sl st in 3rd ch st. Fasten off and weave ends.

It can be a bit difficult to spot some of the sc between the loops of ch st: If in doubt look back and remember where you put the sc in round 6 - and/or use these pictures for help:
This is the beginning after you've ch 3 and mad 2 dc
in first loop - next dc goes in the sc at the arrow
The ring in the picture marks the sc you
just made (left pic) - the next 2 dc goes
in the loop at the arrow 



Now you have the front of your mitt (or just a grannysquare):








Btw... I myself wasn't able to get a dc in the first sc after each corner, but it's not noticeable - if you manage to do it pleace link and comment! :-)



Back piece
I've made the back piece with the same yarn as the front piece - if you use thin cotton yarn for the back piece you'll have to adjust the pattern and probably chain a few more ch st in the beginning and make a few more rows if it's going to fit. 

Ch 30 (and then ch 1 more to turn with - as will you do at the end of each row from now on)
1-29) 30 sc on each row (I made all the sc in back loop only or a ribbed effect but that's a matter of taste)
30) 30 sc, then ch 12, 1 sl st in the first ch st

Now you can either fasten off, weave ends and sew the two pieces together. However, I think it looks better when you just continue to crochet around the back piece as you crochet the two pieces together using sc 

The difference between these to methods looks like this: The left/front one is crocheted together and the other one is sewn together:


If you try this pattern please notify me on isabella@dahlbergmusic.dk or upload the result on instagram with hashtag #garnkusserne - I would LOVE to see and (if I may) share with other readers :-)

Crochet away!

Crocheted plushie elephant (DIY)

This pattern is made of 8 parts: 2 legs, that are crocheted together and continues up and on making the body and the head. Then comes 2 arms, 2 ears and 1 trunk that is made seperately and then attached to the body and head. Eyes and cheeks are sown on with needle and yarn. Remember to stuff the plushie as you go.



You'll need:

  • Crochet hook siza 11 (3 mm)
  • Approx. 3 oz of GREY yarn
  • Approx. 2 oz of yarn for the pants
  • Approx. 2 oz of yarn for the shirt
  • A small amount of BLACK and RED/PINK yarn for eyes and cheeks
  • Plushie stuffing/fiber fill
Abbrev.:
  • mr = magic ring
  • st = stitch(es)
  • sc = single crochet
  • 2 sc tog = 2 single crochet together (decrease)
  • CP = Color of pants
  • CS = Color of shirt

LEGS (GREY and CP)
First leg is made seperately, from the bottom and up, while the second leg is corcheted together with the first one as you will then continue working on the body

GREY
1. 4 sc in mr
2. 2 sc in each st (8)
3. *1 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (12)
4. *2 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (16)
5. *3 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (20)
6. 20 sc
7. *3 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (16)
8. 16 sc
9. *2 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (12)
10-11. 12 sc
Change color to CP: From now on you'll be working in rounds of 12 sc. Change colors as described below.
12-27. *2 rounds of CP, 2 rounds of GREY* x 4 (all in all: 16 rounds)
Change color to CP
28. 12 sc
Fasten off and weave ends on the first leg - the second one is, as mentioned earlier, crocheted together with the first on as described in the following.
Remeber to stuff the legs before you continue.















BODY and HEAD (CP, CS and GREY)
Remember to stuff as you go.

CP
1. The two legs are crocheted together with 24 sc
2. *11 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (26)
3. *12 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (28)
4. *13 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (30)
5. *5 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (35)
6. 35 sc
7. *6 sc, 2 sc in next st* (40)
8. 40 sc
Change color to CS
9-10. 40 sc
11. *8 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (36)
12. *7 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (32)
13. 32 sc
14. *6 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (28)
15. 28 sc
16. *5 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (24)
17. *4 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (20)
18-21. 20 sc
22. *3 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (16)
23. *2 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (12)
24. 12 sc
Change color to GREY
25. 12 sc
26. *1 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (18)
27. *2 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (24)
28. *3 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (30)
29. 30 sc
30. *4 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the round (36)
31-34. 36 sc
35. *4 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (30)
36. 30 sc
37. *3 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (24)
38. *2 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (18)
39. *1 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (12)
Continue with the decreases until the hole in the top of the head is closed. Fasten off and weave ends.





















TRUNK (GREY)
Don't stuff this part.

1. 3 sc in mr
2. 2 sc in each st (6)
3-13. 6 sc (I don't remember exactly how many rounds I made, but I think this will do - otherwise just continue until it has the wanted length)
14. 2 sc in first st, 5 sc (7)
15. 2 sc in first 2 st, 1 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc (8)
16. 2 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc tog, 2 sc tog, 1 sc (9)
17. 2 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc tog, 2 sc tog, 1 sc (11)
18. *2 sc tog* Repeat *-* until you have 5 sc left on the round
Fasten off and weave ends.

EARS (GREY)
1. 6 sc in mr
Now instead of working in rounds as usual, chain 1 and turn, so that you'll work in rows instead of rounds. That way you'll make a half circle.
2. *1 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the row (9)
3. *2 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the row (12)
4. *3 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the row (15)
5. *4 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the row (18)
6. *5 sc, 2 sc in next st* Repeat *-* throughout the row (21)
Fasten off and weave ends. Make another one :-)


ARMS (GREY and CS)
GREY
1. 6 sc in mr
2. 2 sc in each st (12)
3-4. 12 sc
5. *4 sc, 2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (10)
6-7. 10 sc
Change color to CS
8-22. 10 sc
Stuff with fiber fill/plushie stuffing
23. *2 sc tog* Repeat *-* throughout the round (5)
Fasten off and weave ends. Make another on :-)

Now you have all the parts for the elephant, and all you have to do is to put them together using needle and yarn - as goes for eyes and cheeks. 

If you try out this pattern please let me know via isdida90@gmail.com and/or upload a pic of the work on instagram using hashtag #garnkusserne - I would really love to see it and (if you'll allow it) share your results with our readers :-)

Please note that the pattern is for private use only.